Monday, September 16, 2013

My roping effort!

These photos represent the most work I've ever put into performance photos. They are depicting professional, or tie-down, roping. I did some research to make sure I got the right details on the horses. Pro ropers snug up their back cinches, so the saddle doesn't lift off the horse's back when the calf hits the rope end. Pro ropers use a breast collar, but they don't attach it to the show dees, they attach it right to the saddle rigging for strength. The saddle blankets are extra thick and plenty large. Horses have a neck rope, a jerk line, and also a loop affixed to their noseband (of the tie down) that the rope runs through, to prevent the calf from pulling the rope out at an angle. They normally do use a tie-down: the horses brace against it for the weight of the calf. The tie downs do not run through the breastcollar, or clip to the center ring. The bridle has a roping rein, which is a closed loop rein. Leg protection is usually used. The roper ropes from the right, and dismounts from the right if he is right handed. After the calf is tied, the rider hurries back to the horse, mounts, and moves the horse forward to slack the rope to show that the leg tie holds. It only has to hold that long to be accepted. Because the riders dismount and mount in a hurry, they don't wear chaps.

As you can see, I still didn't get it perfectly right, but I did make at least three separate attempts. The background was difficult, because it needed to be extra long. It still could have some improvements! (Stock work is always done with a solid wall, rather than a rail fence.)

Their first show, a MEPSA specialty, they earned a 2nd and a 3rd of 9 entries.



8 comments:

  1. I'm not a roping expert, but I'll give it a try... The backdrop fence seems awfully tall to me. Even the big "colliseum" type arenas I have been in haven't had fences this tall. Usually the top of the fence is about even with the rider's shoulders or head. It is always solid, as you said.

    The neck rope looks like flat leather? I have generally seen neck ropes made of rope or nylon cording. Yours seems a bit loose especially on the John Henry (it seems to stand away from the neck too much) but it could be that the neck rope you made is round instead of oval (a horse's neck shape is oval). You could try reshaping it or skiving it thinner, but I think a neck rope made of waxed thread or cording would shape and lay better.

    I haven't seen open fronted boots very often in roping. Usually they are sports medicine type closed velcro boots with no buckles sticking out for the rope (or anything else) to snag on.

    The man doll isn't sitting well in the saddle, he's more perched on the cantle. The man's back cinch is too far forward and either his leg is too short or his stirrup leathers are too long because his feet aren't anchored down in his stirrups.

    Little things, but they can add up. Overall good research on the rigging!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks :) Helpful comments, esp about the neck rope. The boots are *supposed* to be splint boots, but I'm probably behind the times. Who makes good sports boots, or what do you make them of? Generally, they are nylon type material IRL. See the next photos for my continuing doll problems. It seems I'm always fighting with my riders :(

      Delete
  2. A few pointers:

    Yes, the arena wall is too tall. I can't think of a single rodeo arena with that high of a fence, or a sunken arena that deep.

    Make sure the back cinch is snug against the horse's belly. Any slack, and it will make the saddle slap against his back when the calf hits the end of the rope.

    I agree that the neck rope should be soft cotton rope, not leather. Also, the boots do need to be either sports mess, or proper closed-front skid boots.

    Check the position of the calf. The head should always be pointed towards the horse, and the feet need to be pointed away from the side that the cowboy jumped off, which means usually to the left. Watch a few videos of good roping runs and you will see why. ;) Also, be sure that your horse is NOT up against the fence like in your photos. The chute is in the middle of the arena, and if the horse has gotten all the way over to the side of the arena, something bad happened...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Both back cinches absolutely are snugged up. The calf and the distance from the backdrop are model problems- even with a super huge layout, I couldn't get the horses farther away from the wall without overshooting my backdrop. How do people solve this problem? Maybe I should try my long lens...

      As for the calf, he happens to be one sided, which means he has to lay on that side. I was careful to line him- his head- up with the horse, and have him laying straight. Does that not show up?

      Delete
    2. I agree with the comment to change your backdrop to one of a far-away arena wall so your model appears to be in the middle of the arena.

      The rear cinch on the IP does appear to have a little daylight between it and the belly. You might pull it back a little so it will be clearly tighter.

      The calf's body could be more in line. Remember the horse pulls the calf straight, so the head and the body need to be in line. Also, remember the feet need to be away from the rope so the cowboy flanked him correctly. If the rope is thrown by the right hand, the cowboy jumps off the right and flanks the calf with the feet sticking out to the left. Make sense?

      Delete
  3. From Alice Malcolm:

    On the 2 roping pics: really like these. Thanks to your research you have great detailing…roping glove & rubber on the horn, for example. Only 2 small critique items. 1. Most ropers I know have overreach boots on the horse’s front feet. They may or may not have splint boots above them or on the back legs. 2. The rider is sitting in good upright horsemanship position. Truth is, most ropers have no experience with horsemanship positions. I’m married to one of these. He can stay with almost any horse doing almost any bad move [years of rough stock experience helps] & he’s won a lot both calf & steer roping, but his seat isn’t “pretty.” Don’t know where you got the info about calf roping being done only against a solid wall. Most of what I’ve seen has been done with other types of fencing, anything that would hold cattle in. As far as pics go, the solid wall’s the better choice as far as I’m concerned.

    NRHA pattern 2: like this one too, especially the background. It’d be better if the rider was looking a little to the left going into that turn. Don’t know if that’s possible with the doll rider. Many can only look ahead.

    Dressage: not enough experience to comment on this.

    King: He’d be best in a Fantasy class. I’ve taught Medieval & Renaissance art history. Have never seen a historical outfit like this, but it’s neat for Fantasy!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I've been trying (hard!) to find where I read that all stock work had to be done against a solid wall or fence with small openings- too small for the calves/cows to get stuck in, or try to go through. I can't find it! I know I've read it somewhere, although it's true that so many photos show rail fences!

      I think this is also convention in model horse shows, so to eliminate the solid wall, I'd have to have documentation to prove that's allowed. I can't now find anything about fence types, period :(

      Appreciate your comments!


      Delete
  4. My comment about the solid wall referred to the fact that in a coliseum type arena, I have always seen solid walls so that the stock doesn't try to charge the fence into the audience. However, calf roping does indeed often take place in arenas with pipe fencing. If you look online, you can find plenty of pictures of this. Generally the run does take place down the center of the arena, not against the wall/fence.I think it would help your setup if you changed the backdrop to a far-away arena fence photo.

    ReplyDelete